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Returning to our Regularly Scheduled Content – Cruising Ten Thousand Islands

Cruising / Boating (March 2017 - present) Travelogues

Oct 19, 2017 by Cherie Ve Ard 15 Comments

We have now been in Marathon, Florida for two months. TWO MONTHS!!

Where has the time gone?

Oh right, that little interruption we’ll just call Irma. We switched to real time updates during the evacuation, waiting for word on our boat and the initial recovery.

And honestly, there was a span of time we didn’t think we’d ever get back to sharing the travel adventures that lead us here in the first place.

But now that we’re provisioning to leave Marathon, it’s time to get back to our regularly scheduled content. And are we ever so thankful that we get to continue our Great Loop adventure aboard Y-Not.

So join us for a little time warp back to August, picking up on our cruise down to the Keys from Ft. Myers.

This post covers August 12-15, 2017

The Ten Thousand Islands

When last we left you hanging, we had just departed Marco Island after taking on fuel and finally pumping our poop out of the tanks.

We were ready to head into the wilderness of the Ten Thousand Islands (an area just south of Marco Island with – you guessed it – a lot of islands) and Everglades National Park.

We were full of excitement for our first longer passages, our first extended anchoring in isolated places and finding some amazing scenic locations.

Here’s the video version of this episode (at about 12 minutes)

Stop 1: Panther Key Anchorage

Our Navionics chart — 16 nm from Marco Island to Panther Key. Cruising Time: 2.7 hours.

We checked in with the Marco Island TowBoat.US captain for routing guidance, and determined that the much more protected and scenic inland pass to Goodland was suitable for our vessel on a rising tide.

This saved us from backtracking back out into the open gulf to round Cape Romano.

It was another beautiful & relaxing mangrove lined cruise, with a dolphin escort.

We saw hardly any other boat traffic until we reached the gulf, and even then, it was pretty sparse.

We turned the boat south, and had our pick of anchorages to aim for. We selected Panther Key as our destination, mostly because of mentions in Active Captain that it had access to a beach.

It was an easy arrival to find an ideal anchoring spot and it felt fairly well protected – not that we’d need it, weather predictions had calm wind and seas for the coming days.

We enjoyed a lovely evening with gorgeous scenery, visiting dolphins and a short walk on the beach (for as long as we could endure the mosquitos!).

Cruising Goodland Pass
Cruising Goodland Pass
Drone shot: Panther Key
Drone shot: Panther Key
Dinghy Ashore
Dinghy Ashore
Beach Walk
Beach Walk
View from the bridge
View from the bridge
Sunsets
Sunsets

The cell signal was strong here, so we seriously contemplated staying a second night so we could catch up on some work. But it was the weekend, and sure enough by mid-morning there were arriving boats beaching themselves for a day ashore.

We took that as a sign it was time to force ourselves to find our next location.

Stop 2: West Pass Anchorage

Our Navionics chart — 5.6 nm from Panther Key to West Pass. Cruising Time: 1.2 hours.

A quick cruise back out into the gulf, and we motored a few miles south with an aim to check out West Pass.  Just as soon as we pulled in we both knew we had found our spot.

We anchored in the middle of a protected large cove and just oogled at the beauty.

Here we would be within dinghy access of a couple of beaches, providing we could survive the mosquitos.

And wow, cell signal on both AT&T and Verizon was still quite usable.

We stayed here two evenings – taking several dinghy rides to check out the beaches for quick walks (did we mention the mosquitos yet? Yeah, they were here too).

We also took afternoon swim breaks to keep cool at slack tides – as the tidal currents could be pretty strong. Even then, we always used swim lines to make sure neither of us got whisked away.

Had there been easier access to mosquito free beaches to walk – we may be been tempted to stay here a few more days.

It was absolutely lovely and everything we dreamed of for the area.

Drone shot: West Pass
Drone shot: West Pass
Screen Shot 2017-10-18 at 9.51.25 AM
Sunsets
Sunsets
Kiki enjoying a sunset
Kiki enjoying a sunset
Dinghy adventures
Dinghy adventures
Land! Ouch.. mosquitos too!
Land! Ouch.. mosquitos too!

We decided it was time to keep moving southward.

Stop 3: Russell Pass Anchorage

Our Navionics chart — 7.6 nm from West Pass to Russell Pass. Cruising Time: 1.2 hours.

According to ActiveCaptain, Russell Pass was a protected anchorage that would be about a 30 minute dinghy ride into the Everglades National Park Visitors Center.

We had visions of taking a nice long dinghy ride, and then getting out on shore for a few hours for exploring around “town”.

However, the anchorage was a bit less protected than we had gotten spoiled with. It was pretty rolly with tour boats passing by frequently kicking up wake.

We just didn’t feel comfortable enough here to leave the boat anchored on its own for that length of time, not to mention it was pretty darn hot and sunny out.

That afternoon we got on camera and shared some of the downsides we were experiencing with anchoring out – the lack of beaches, abundance of mosquitos and the heat (requiring constant generator time to run the AC).

Basically, we were getting a bit stir crazy by this point.

Beautiful rainbow
Beautiful rainbow
Each anchorage kinda looking the same
Each anchorage kinda looking the same
Chemicals.. or walking?
Chemicals.. or walking?
Sunsets, always lovely.
Sunsets, always lovely.
Kiki trying to keep cool.
Kiki trying to keep cool.

We stayed the night, enjoyed a lovely rainbow and headed out in the morning with intentions to cut our time short on this passage and get to the Keys sooner rather than later.

But first, we’d enjoy two more lovely stops in the Everglades… those adventures up next!

Great Loop Log (8/15/2017)

  • Distance: 145 nm
  • Stops: 12
  • Marina Nights: 97
  • Anchored Nights: 12
  • Bridges : 9
  • Locks: 0

Other Travel Posts in this Series:

  • The Great Loop: South to the Keys (Part 1) — Ft. Myers to Naples
  • The Great Loop: South to the Keys (Part 2) – Naples to Marco Island
  • The Great Loop: South to the Keys (Part 3) – Cruising Ten Thousand Islands
  • The Great Loop: South to the Keys (Part 4) – Everglades National Park — Little Shark River & Cape Sable
  • Sometimes Nomads Need to Grow Some Barnacles (Two Months in Fort Myers)
  • Starting the Great Loop — First Adventure: Punta Gorda, FL to Fort Myers, FL

Current Status & Plans Forward:

We’re waiting out some small storms predicted for this weekend, and then sometime early week we’re intending to fire up the engines and toss the lines – making our exit out of the Keys.

Crane barges start lifting destroyed boats off the harbor floor.

It seems surreal to even have the luxury of this option, especially as salvage efforts here in Boot Key Harbor are just ramping up to haul sunken boats (check out some drone footage we captured of boats being hauled out).

Our next destination is Ft. Pierce, Florida.

The 220 nm trip will nearly double our cumulative miles to date and cover some of the more congested areas of the Loop also recently impacted by Irma. We’ll be giving ourselves a couple of weeks to make the trip so we can take it slow and make stops along the way.

Once to Ft. Pierce, we are making arrangements to have the boat hauled out for a thorough inspection, attend to some of the comparatively minor hurricane repairs and proceed with some of our planned upgrades. 

More than likely, while the boat is on the hard (ie. on land) – we’ll be moving back into the RV during the process for sanity’s sake. We’ve also learned a thing or two since our bus renovations a couple years back, and have hired a marine project manager we’re coordinating projects with.

Being in Ft. Pierce will keep us also in easy range for spending the holidays with our parents this season.

We’re both eager and nervous to move on.

Even though the emotions have not fully caught up, our experience in the Keys will definitely go down as one of our most memorable.

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Cruising / Boating (March 2017 - present) Travelogues

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Al Van Putten says

    Feb 12, 2018 at 6:09 pm

    Sent to your site by my daughter Debra who is ‘acquainted’ with you via the Xcapers group – she’s a full timer. I’ve been off the road for 7 yrs now after having been a FT RV traveler with my wife for 15 yrs. Anyway, am thinking of selling my condo (I’m alone) and doing the live aboard thing for part of the year and spending the remaining few summer months in my RV. Anyway, I now live in a boating community called Port of the Islands just east of Marco Is and have been enjoying, so far, the early part of your journey. Of particular interest to me has been the 10,000 Island ‘tour’. You anchored at Panther Key which is the outlet for the Faka-Union River. Port of the Islands/Home is about 3nm upriver. Panther Key, Round Key, Tiger Key, Goodland are all part of my daily stomping/wading/swimming areas. So thanx for sharing and who knows, perhaps some day I might cross your wake. Y-not?

    Reply
  2. Sue and Doug says

    Oct 23, 2017 at 9:03 am

    We’ve been following your adventures and are so glad to hear you did ok through the hurricane and are back on the road, er, water… Looking forward to hearing more!

    We’ll be interrupting our travel adventures in a week or so for ski season. We plan to make at least one visit to Melbourne area. Perhaps we can connect live…

    Continued enjoyment and good fortune!

    Reply
  3. Howard Johnson says

    Oct 21, 2017 at 8:07 pm

    Mosquitoes! Give vanilla extract a try. Put DEET on your hat and clothes and the vanilla extract on your face, hands, and ears. Works for about an hour and you smell yummy.

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 22, 2017 at 8:57 am

      Thanks for the tip… definitely would smell better for sure.

      Reply
  4. Nancy Green says

    Oct 21, 2017 at 2:46 am

    Really happy to hear that you two…..and kitty…are back at it!!! Love following your adventures and so thankful your boat did not suffer through the storm….thanks for the great pictures and sharing your adventures!
    Nancy

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 22, 2017 at 8:59 am

      Thanks for following along, makes it more fun for us to share 🙂

      Reply
  5. Lucille says

    Oct 20, 2017 at 10:43 pm

    Looks picturesque and peaceful.

    Reply
  6. DL says

    Oct 20, 2017 at 12:43 pm

    Omygosh!!! That drone video was spectacular! Really necessary to get an idea of surroundings in relation to you and your boat. Amazing!!

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 20, 2017 at 3:45 pm

      The drone (a DJI Mavic Pro for anyone curious) has certainly added a new dimension to video and photography! We’re loving ours, and it’s fun for Chris too.

      Reply
  7. cyndi says

    Oct 20, 2017 at 12:27 pm

    Love hearing about your adventures. Only wish I had data for the videos, etc. Maybe someday!

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 20, 2017 at 3:44 pm

      Thankfully, many cellular plans have been advanced to include unlimited video streaming – perfect for travelers wanting video on the go. And it’s certainly allowed us to expand with the content we create.

      Reply
  8. The Second 40 years says

    Oct 19, 2017 at 8:03 pm

    Hi kids! Have you tried Repel; made from Eucalyptus and lemon oil? Works for me, if I put on too much even people stay away. Deet based products eats me up and melts plastic; hate it. Repel for me is the ticket. Years ago I spent some time in those ten thousand islands, no matter the hyperbole; searching for buried pirate treasure, no I am serious. As beautiful as it is, it was the gnats of the biting kind that made it uninhabitable. One morning as the rising sun shown into the tent that should have been very orange; was brown. The gnats so thick that they blocked the sun. If the wind blows and you stay away from shore, it can be done. Early morning and late evenings plus shady spots are your enemies. Love reading about your adventures. Thanks, Clint

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 20, 2017 at 9:20 am

      One of the repellents we have is all natural made with oils. Honestly, against these beasts – nothing really worked. Unfortunately, the only option for me for taking a walk is when it’s not sunny.

      Reply
  9. Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick says

    Oct 19, 2017 at 4:39 pm

    Really fun to read about your passage thru the Ten Thousand Islands. I just finished an excellent book by Peter Mathieson called, “Killing Mr. Watson”. It’s a true story about that area back during the late 1800’s to 1910 when Mr.Watson got himself killed by the locals. The place was the last true wilderness in Florida and the accounts of life there and the tenuous and dangerous life the locals lived was very interesting. Many places on your navigation maps are places I know from the book. I highly recommend it. Glad to see you are getting back on the water again! BTW the drone footage was cool too.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008QLXRYQ/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&btkr=1

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 20, 2017 at 9:07 am

      Thanks, sounds like an interesting read! Definitely still feels like wildness too.

      Reply

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