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Exploring the White Mountains of New Hampshire

Travelogues

Sep 9, 2016 by Cherie Ve Ard 17 Comments

Ashland to Hancock Campground - Such a long driving day :)
Ashland to Hancock Campground – Such a long driving day 🙂

Tanks flushed. Laundry done. Chores caught up on.

We were ready to head out into the wilderness of the White Mountains for a few days of exploring.

After reading a few blogs of nomads before us, we were not anticipating having much connectivity.

And none of the Forest Service Campgrounds in the White Mountains offer electrical hook-ups. But yet are heavily wooded, so we weren’t anticipating much solar collection either.

We vowed to take a few days off work and actually get out exploring. Wow, imagine that??

This post covers August 22-24.

Hancock Campground – Lincoln, NH

We left out of Ashland on Monday morning, and made the short drive north into the mountains.

Hancock Campground - pretty typical of most of the forest service campgrounds in the area.
Hancock Campground – pretty typical of most of the forest service campgrounds in the area.

We had selected highway 112, also known as the Kancamagus Highway (or as the locals call it.. ‘The Kanc’ – it’s a lot easier to pronounce) that connects Lincoln to Conway.

There are half a dozen first come first serve Forest Service campgrounds along the scenic cut across – all of which can accommodate RVs of most any size, and are priced at $24/night.

Just on the outskirts of Lincoln, sits Hancock Campground (our review)- the first of them from the west.

Our Verizon devices were still getting a hint of signal. Could it be true? Internet in the forest after all?

Site 47 - huge, private feeling and backed up to the trail to the river.
Site 47 – huge, private feeling and backed up to the trail to the river.

We parked the bus and walked the campground – finding several suitable sites available. Site 47 in particular called to us both, so we decided to pay for a night at least.

After getting parked, we got in the MINI and motored the rest of The Kanc, stopping in several of the other campgrounds to see if anything tempted us. Most of the campgrounds are very similar – lovely decently sized sites in forest cover.

We couldn’t see any advantage to moving and giving up our internet signal and easy access to town amenities. So we prepaid for the rest of our expected time in the area when we got back to camp.

Every night we were there, the campground pretty much filled to capacity by late afternoon. So we count our selves lucky (wise?) to have come in early in the day for prime selection.

The river.. just a few feet behind our site. We couldn't see it from our site, but we could hear it all night long.
The Pemigewasset River.. just a few feet behind our site. We couldn’t see it from our site, but we could hear it all night long.

Our site was out of ear shot of the highway, but we could hear the rushing water of the Pemigewasset River that ran just mere feet behind us.

We spent many an evening sitting along the banks watching the Milky Wave spill into the river. And during the day, campers indulged in small swimming holes along the shores.

The Lincoln Woods trail head is just up the road, which provided ample hiking opportunity. Had we been in the area longer, we would have gotten the bikes out to hit the trails too.

And we got a couple hours of decent sun peaking through the trees, that kept our batteries nicely charged up without needing to run our generator.

The Weeks Act Legacy Trail

The Weeks Act Legacy Trail - out motoring adventure!
The Weeks Act Legacy Trail – out motoring adventure!

While we were able to score usable internet, we kept our promise of taking time off and exploring – not working.

We selected the Weeks Act Legacy Trail drive, a 100-mile loop through the highlights of the White Mountains as our adventure.

The trail is named for the Weeks Act of 1911, which paved the way for purchasing of land to create the national forest preserves.

We downloaded the audio tour, and set off for a day of self guided motoring!

It’s a beautiful drive, and we can only image how much more stunning it will be later this fall.

The Presidential Series of peaks.
The Presidential Series of peaks.

Definitely a great way to get an overview of the area.

The trail passes through both the provisioning towns of Lincoln and Conway, making great pitstops for lunch or a snack.

The Cog up Mt. Washington

This is our level of hiking, not mountain climbing.
This is our level of hiking, not mountain climbing.

On the northern side of the Weeks Act Legacy drive sits Mt. Washington – the tallest peak in New England.

There are three ways to get to the top: Driving. Hiking. Or The Cog Railway.

Hiking was out. We’re adventurous, but not mountain climbing adventurous.

We considered driving to the top, but a Cog Railway?!?

A train ride will almost always win our hearts if given the choice. And besides with a 100 mile motoring tour, a break from driving would be nice.

We honestly didn’t know what we were getting ourselves into with this adventure, and at first thought the $69 ticket price was a bit steep. We’ve done incline railways & funiculars before – and thought this would mainly be a touristy jaunt up the mountain.

Cog Railway
Cog Railway
The Cogs leaving us at the top of Mt. Washington.
The Cogs leaving us at the top of Mt. Washington.
Inside view.
Inside view.

Instead, it’s a pretty unique adventure riding the first world’s first mountain climbing train built in 1869. Using cogs to climb the tracks up the mountain grades, the engine pushes the specially designed car full of passengers.

Over the years, it’s advanced in technology from a coal fired steam powered engine (which they still run one a day), to today’s modern & efficient biodiesel engines that require less than 20 gallons of fuel for the round trip.

The old coal steam powered engine.
The old coal steam powered engine.
Today's biodiesel engines.
Today’s biodiesel engines.
The tracks up the mountain.
The tracks up the mountain.

They run 2 or 3 engines concurrently with each departure. Twisting through scenic views, and at times traversing 37 degree inclines. The journey takes about 45 minutes in each direction.

On the way up, passengers are encouraged to stand up to feel the incline.

Pano at the top of the mountain.
Pano at the top of the mountain.

Passengers are let off for exploring around the summit for an hour – where you can visit the weather station (the site of the highest recorded wind speed), base camp and overlooks.

Top of Mt. Washington.
Top of Mt. Washington.

And then you board a new train for the descent. This time, controlling the brakes is key.

The views are absolutely stunning.

We thoroughly enjoyed our Cog experience, much more than we anticipated. We both returned to the base giddy.

Tip: The last departure of the day is discounted $15 during summer hours. We planned our Weeks Act Legacy motoring to arrive in time for the last departure of the day at 3:30pm. The savings was nice, but in all honesty – this trip was worth every penny.

What’s Up Next?

Driving The Kanc east to China (the city, not the country). There was a bit of a grade on the overpass, so we hitched up on the other side.
Driving The Kanc east. There was a bit of a grade on the overpass, so we hitched up on the other side. Which means.. bus road pictures!

All and all, our time in the White Mountains was way too short. We only spent three nights, but could have easily talked ourselves into more.

If only we could add a few more weeks to our time in the northeast!

But new adventures were calling on the coast of Maine.

Next up for us would be a visit to China (the city, not the country).

Those tales will be told soon enough.

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Comments

  1. Michael Haight says

    Sep 22, 2016 at 10:27 pm

    Fortuitous timing for us as we are about to head out on our first long trip with our new 5th wheel. Heading from MI to ME and some Maritime provinces. We had no idea of the potential of the White’s and since we are retired have added them to our itinerary for a few days. Thank you so much and hope to run into you guys someday. We have a driveway to park in if you’re ever in mid-Michigan, although we are headed to Alaska next summer.
    Mike & Jamie

    Reply
  2. Charlie says

    Sep 11, 2016 at 8:44 am

    Your blog has helped us a lot as this is our first RV and we are out on out first big trip. 3 months in Canada. Coming back though Maine and New Hampshire to Atlanta. We learned a lot from your blog before we picked up our rig. Kelly has now started our own blog of our adventures. http://Www.rollingwithkc.com

    Thanks. Charlie and Kelly.

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 11, 2016 at 8:44 pm

      Hope you’re having a fabulous first adventure! Crazy to think we might have had time this summer to explore Canada too.

      Reply
  3. sara says

    Sep 11, 2016 at 8:12 am

    Great share (as usual)! We are planning to explore NH & ME later this month so thanks for the ideas & tips!

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 11, 2016 at 8:43 pm

      Have a fantastic time exploring. Gotta say, we’re a bit envious. Part of us really wishes we could stick around longer and enjoy the fall foliage.

      Reply
  4. RVLuckyOrWhat says

    Sep 11, 2016 at 12:03 am

    Fantastic! Glad you got to see the White Mountains. I miss New England a bit this summer, I must admit. It’s the first summer in 26 years I wasn’t living there or at least visiting, but the Colorado Plateau kept us very busy. I was wondering if maybe you were giddy at the bottom of the Cog because you got your oxygen back, lol. Hope you enjoy Maine.
    Val & Mitch

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 11, 2016 at 8:42 pm

      Ahhh.. Colorado.. somewhere we’ve not spent nearly enough time. Enjoy!

      And hmm, now that you mention it – maybe it was the Oxygen levels 🙂

      Reply
  5. Jodee Gravel says

    Sep 10, 2016 at 8:19 pm

    As much as I dislike heights, I find cogs pretty fantastic – that one looks especially great! We’re looking forward to seeing the area next month – thanks for the preview!!

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 11, 2016 at 8:41 pm

      This one is definitely worth doing (but apparently they only get a few clear days like we had a season).. enjoy!

      Reply
  6. pat says

    Sep 10, 2016 at 12:32 am

    I grew up in New Hampshire, but have lived in California for the past 30 or so years, so it was a joy to read your past few blogs and revisit home. We do take our 30′ Lazy Daze RV back to New England every few years to visit relatives, but borrow or rent a car to careen around in the White Mountains. Thanks for the memories. Hope you find somewhere wonderful in Florida to spend the winter.

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 10, 2016 at 9:29 am

      We can imagine coming back to visit New Hampshire is something to look forward to. Beautiful area indeed.

      Reply
  7. Marvin and Colette says

    Sep 9, 2016 at 11:41 pm

    From Collette and Marvin July, thank you both for the site and photo shots. We just love what you’re doing. We want finish our 1986 Eagle till Dec. 2017(hopefully).We are looking to meet you too when you come near our area(Steger, Illinois). Please keep up the exciting life!
    the July’s

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 10, 2016 at 9:28 am

      Best wishes in getting your bus finished and out there exploring!

      Reply
  8. Rich says

    Sep 9, 2016 at 9:09 pm

    About 25 yrs ago when my ex and I took our son (now 29) up the cog railway, I think they only ran steam engines – in any case ours was steam. I remember the continuous thump of the cam as it hit ever cog along the way. The weather at the bottom was mid 80s and sunny, and at the top it was foggy (or rather blanketed in cloud) and 40s. I also remember pictures of the workers who built it going down the track on sleds – what a ride that must have been! The weather station was pretty cool. I guess it must be one of the few places where you can ascend 6,000 feet in under an hour. That highest wind velocity ever *recorded* (not every place has a weather station) was 231 MPH. The weather station is staffed year round and resembles a bunker…

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 10, 2016 at 9:27 am

      I believe the biodiesel engines were only introduced about 10 years ago. They still run the steam engine one once a day and for special occasions (there was a Steampunk Festival on it we missed by a week!).

      The building of the tracks and engineering of the cars & engines is amazing too.

      Reply
  9. Bob&De says

    Sep 9, 2016 at 11:51 am

    Glad you were able to spend some time in NH, if you decide to head this way again, try and plan a visit to the North Country, Ramble Woods campground in Pitsburg is a nice place to stay, it’s on a hill with views of one if the Connecticut lakes, and it’s your best chance to see a moose, Wifi is limited, which makes it a great place to get away:)

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Sep 10, 2016 at 9:19 am

      We would definitely love to return to the area.. thanks for the tips for future adventures!

      Reply

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Chris Dunphy & Cherie Ve Ard - Technomadia.

Perpetually on the road since 2006 combining technology and travel (tech+nomad). Semi-retired now, working remotely runnng the Mobile Internet Resource Center - helping our nomadic community stay connected.

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