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Next Up on the Oregon Coast – Cape Arago Lighthouse & Charleston

Travelogues

Oct 16, 2014 by Cherie Ve Ard 15 Comments

It feels so wonderful to be back to a meandering pace, and taking in life as we see fit. No impending deadlines, no schedule to keep, no destination we’re aiming for, no commitments.

Waving to our friends down at Cape Blanco from Cape Arago.
Waving to our friends down at Cape Blanco from Cape Arago.

When we feel like moving on, we move on.

When we find a location we really like, we extend.

This is exactly the lifestyle we’ve craved getting back to. The stress of months of balancing long work hours with many miles to cover is dissipating. If it weren’t for the fact that we are indeed working (our RV Mobile Internet Resource Center has been buzzing lately with activity thanks to the major carrier’s double data deals this month), I’d almost say it feels like being on vacation!

Ahh… joy, happiness and income! Yes, we’ll take it.

So last we reported in, we had just left the bustling Bullard’s Beach State Park in Bandon, after a short two night stay. It just wasn’t jiving with our vibe, ya know? So where’d we head next?

We’ve decided that we’re going to see all 9 lighthouses on the Oregon Coast. It just seems like as reasonable a goal as any, and especially fun after being at the southern most lighthouse and hearing tales of the others from our guests at Cape Blanco Lighthouse.

Lighthouse are paced about 30 miles apart up the coast, which makes for perfectly short driving days along scenic Highway 101.

So off we went, scouting out amazing camping locations that would provide decent base camps for exploring lighthouses!

Bastendorff Beach Park – Charleston, OR

The next lighthouse on the list is Cape Arago, just south of Coos Bay. The most often referenced closest campground to stay at is Sunset Beach State Park – but we were getting conflicting reports if cellular signal would be abundant enough for us.

Sunset Beach SP on the left, then a commercial campground, then Bastendorff.
Sunset Beach SP on the left, then a commercial campground, then Bastendorff.

As I was zooming around on Google Maps in the area, I spied two other potential campgrounds in the area that hadn’t come up in my quick Coos Bay area search on RV Park Reviews, as they were marked as being in Charsleton, OR.

One was a private park at $36/night and the other was a county park at $20/night with water & electric. A little investigating revealed that Bastendorff Beach Park was a gem of a park, and more likely to have cellular signal.

I almost succumbed to making a reservation online to snag a spot that looked ideal for us, but the $11 (?!?) reservation fee convinced us to just show up and take our chances. Worst case, there is a BLM parking area along the nearby jetty that allows a night of free overnight parking.

And good thing we did too, as the spot we thought would work for us was actually quite unlevel and we ended up being able to snag a different one that had an ocean view through the trees!

Our beach sunset view from the county park overlook. Not too shabby, eh?
Our beach sunset view from the county park overlook. Not too shabby, eh?
And from the cliffs at the beach below us.
And from the cliffs at the beach below us.
Beach trees at sunset.
Beach trees at sunset.

Bastendorff Beach Park (our review) sits on top of a cliff, with the beach below it. This made for great overlooks, with nearby beach walking – and fantastic cellular signal on Verizon & AT&T. Score!  Most of the sites were very large, with great trees and privacy around them.  Our kind of place.

We paid up for 3 nights so we had time to work at a casual pace and be tourists.

Our site at Bastendorff - that bright light behind us? Ocean view, baby!
Our site at Bastendorff – that bright light behind us? Ocean view, score!

Next up.. finding Cape Arago Lighthouse.

The lighthouse has been decommissioned for a couple years and the island it’s on has been turned back over to the Indian tribe who has historic claims to it. In other words, it’s not overly accessible to get a close-up view, and tours are out of the question.

From the beach below our park, we could catch a glimpse of Cape Arago Lighthouse through the sea stacks.

Beautiful view of Cape Arago from Bastendorff Beach.
Beautiful view of Cape Arago Lighthouse from Bastendorff Beach.

And there’s a view point just past Sunset Beach.

But that’s not good enough for us – we had heard about part of the Oregon Coast Trail going in for a closer look. We picked up the trail down at Sunset Beach, and followed it up the cape. Calling this is a ‘trail’ is a bit of misnomer.

The 'trail' out to Cape Arago  Lighthouse.
The ‘trail’ out to Cape Arago Lighthouse.

It involved a bit of bushwhacking, climbing over downed trees, scrimmaging along cliff edges and pecking our way through the lush tropical feeling forest.

And then.. there it was. In all its glory before us.

DSC00666
Sitting mighty atop an eroding island, this light once warned ships away from this rocky area.
DSC00665
Keepers have accessed this lighthouse via various bridges and even a arial ‘tram’ at one point. Now, the only way out is by boat, rock climbing… and/or magic.

After our challenging hike out, this was a site to behold as our reward. Just. Wow.

We savored every single moment.

Proud technomads!
Proud technomads!

We found our way back to Sunset Beach after backtracking our way out, and then drove down Cape Arago Highway a bit to check out other non-lighthouse attractions (as if there’s such a thing, right?).

We stopped at a few overlooks, admired sea lions and elephant seals upon rocks.. and then found Shoreacres, the site of the old plantation run by the Simpson family many decades ago, now managed by the state park system.

Seals and sea lions.. about a mile off shore. (I'm thinking I love my new Sony X350 camera!)
Seals and sea lions.. about a mile off shore.

Our Oregon state park pass, a perk of being volunteer hosts, got us in for free. But we would have gladly paid to wander through these extraordinarily beautiful botanical gardens.

DSC00686
My geek warrior, Chris, striking a yoga pose on command in the Oriental gardens.
The dalias in full bloom still! Gorgeous.
The dalias in full bloom still! Gorgeous.
DSC00702
The rose gardens.

An amazing day out exploring. And we just couldn’t ask for better weather! I caught myself at one point asking if we had actually been transported to Hawaii?? This, is Oregon, in October?

The rest of our time at Bastendorff was spent with some intensive writing sessions, preparing a nearly 5000 word guide for our Mobile Internet Aficinodo members to selecting one of the ‘double data’ deals offered by the major carriers this month.

Next Up?

Where did we end up next? You’ll just have to stay tuned for our next travelogue post to catch up with us!  We promise, it’s just as amazing, and near the next lighthouse up the coast along the Umpqua River.

PS. I’m *really* digging my new Sony WX350 camera, which took all of the pictures in this post.

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Comments

  1. wheelingit says

    Oct 16, 2014 at 9:27 pm

    Damn, you are getting some FINE photo’s with that new camera. Love the red sunset shot and the shot of the light thro’ the trees. And of course I LOVE the Lighthouse shot (we’ve never gotten that close!)

    Nina

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 11:09 pm

      I assure you.. it’s the camera, not the photographer 😀 I’m pretty impressed with it, and the quality just makes me all that much more inclined to take more photos to share.

      Miss you guys!

      Reply
  2. Rochelle Furtah says

    Oct 16, 2014 at 7:53 pm

    When we were at the gardens recently there was a Classic Car competition…so twice the beauty. You are following our trail up the coast. I hope the weather holds out for you. We will return to the coast someday. Sure loved it and all the lighthouses.

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 11:09 pm

      It is such a beautiful coast.. we’re so glad we made the time to enjoy this October weather and explore. And thanks for scouting out some great spots for us 🙂

      Reply
  3. Roger Williams says

    Oct 16, 2014 at 5:38 pm

    Great update Cherie, love the photos! Looks like a place we will have to visit someday.

    The shot with the sunbeams throught he trees is my favorite.

    I thought Chris was trying to surf that concrete bench but I see the Yoga pose as well… 😉

    $11 online registration fee!?! Do they expect us to think that is a realistic cost of doing business? It seems like they would want you to reserve a spot and make it as easy as possible to do so.

    Safe travels!

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 11:08 pm

      Haha.. I guess that could be surfing too :). And yeah, we’ve seen various parks charge reservation fees – such as the Oregon State Parks all charge $8. $11 was a new high for us.

      Reply
  4. Lynne (WinnieViews) says

    Oct 16, 2014 at 1:08 pm

    Gorgeous campsite & photos! With that spectacular Bastendorff spot, this area is certainly on my radar now– I first read about it this past summer when my friend Suzanne (TakeToTheHighway) blogged about Arago ( http://taketothehighway.com/2014/06/04/cape-arago-i-feel-you ). I’m not sure I’m as big a lighthouse nut as all of you guys are, but quite an adventure for sure to see all of the OR coastal lights!

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 1:31 pm

      Awesome post from Suzanne.. sounds like she found the same path we did out there. It’s really quite an adventure, but so worth it!

      PS. We weren’t lighthouse nuts beforehand, so no worries.. there’s still time to change 🙂

      Reply
  5. Karen says

    Oct 16, 2014 at 10:16 am

    Beautiful, just beautiful! So glad you guys have finally been able to find your comfortable pace in life again.
    We miss you guys, but not the weather moving in out there. We had our one brush with winter in the WY Rockies already, so we’re happy to be back in the Midwest, with the mountains in our rear view mirror. Yikes!
    One more night, little girl, we promise! 🙂

    K,K,&P

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 12:41 pm

      Wow, you’re already back in the midwest since we parted ways at Cape Blanco, and we’ve moved all off about 150 miles. Ok, feeling like a slug now 😀 Enjoy the rest of your trip home, and pets to Pipa!

      Reply
  6. Metamorphosis Lisa says

    Oct 16, 2014 at 10:11 am

    We discovered that gem of a garden at Shore Acres a few years ago, it is exceptionally lovely in the spring. Thanks for taking me back there!

    Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 12:40 pm

      It was so beautiful, very enchanting!

      Reply
  7. Patricia Davidson says

    Oct 16, 2014 at 3:28 am

    You were in my backyard😉 I live 15 minute from those locations. From your description and from the looks of one of your pictures of Cape Arago Lighthouse you were on Tribal land. You can’t get that close without being on it. Just thought you should know.

    Reply
    • Chris Dunphy says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 3:58 am

      We followed a trail along the cape from Sunset Bay State Park, and that is where we took the pictures from. There was no signs indicating that we shouldn’t have gone that way, and we passed a few others on the trail too. But yep, after checking up on the maps afterwards – it definitely was tribal land. I hope they open it up to the public properly someday, it is an absolutely beautiful location.

      Reply
    • Cherie Ve Ard says

      Oct 16, 2014 at 12:39 pm

      We just followed instructions for the Oregon Coast Trail – which specifically mentioned the view point being along it, as did other lighthouse sources, and there were absolutely no signs or fencing around it, or any warning signs from the trail’s entry point at Sunset Beach. There were around other possible entry points, but not this one.

      Reply

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Chris Dunphy & Cherie Ve Ard - Technomadia.

Perpetually on the road since 2006 combining technology and travel (tech+nomad). Semi-retired now, working remotely runnng the Mobile Internet Resource Center - helping our nomadic community stay connected.

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